Mile 4118.7 - Getting close

Today is day 69 and I woke up knowing that there were not many days left ahead of me. What I expected in front of me was terrain and heat, but not for very much longer. The straight lines of eastern Ohio were a distant memory in this land of curves and angles. At least I was going through forests and there were plenty of trees.

Looking at the map for places to camp, I found one that looked most inviting, in the town of Sinnemahoning. It was a little over 100 miles away, but if I could do that, I would leave 350 miles left or about 85 miles split over four days. I needed to start early if I wanted that to happen.

A fog hung over the valley, keeping visibility under 1/4 mile. The day's ride started with a 2 mile 7% climb. I know that's what it was because the sign said so. Then I got a nice fast downhill, made all the more adventurous by the curves in the fog. Woo hoo. The mist made it clammy and damp though, and there were a couple of times when I considered pulling out the windbreaker. I laughed about the thought of putting on a jacket later in the afternoon, but I was a bit cold now.

I wound around several hills and came into the town of Leeper. About half a mile before town, I was overtaken on a climb by four motorcycles carrying 6 people. At the major intersection, I stopped at a breakfast joint called the Sawmill Restaurant. In the lot the six people were dismounting their four motorbikes and I smiled and said good morning as I pulled in. No response. Ok, whatever. In the Sawmill you go to the counter to order and then they bring the food. I wanted to grab the tiny booth for two next to the window, but the line of motorcyclists was blocking it. I set my helmet with my shades, gloves and gps down on the booth for four next to the door where I could see anyone approaching Penny, but not the bike herself. I worked my way through the groggy and grumpy group to the counter to grab a menu then resumed my spot at the end of the line. It took a while to cycle through them all, but finally there was no one in front of me. This was technically my second breakfast of the day, I had nibbled while breaking camp, but I was hungry from the climbing already. I gave my order to the cheerful woman at the counter and turn around to find that someone had moved my helmet. The motorbikers occupied three booths for two in an L, with the table in the middle the one I had left my stuff on. I looked over at them and none of them would make eye contact with me. Seriously? Not Cool. How hard is it to say 'hey dude can we have this table?' or even just inform me that you want to move my stuff. The table they had set it on was five feet behind me, I was right there! But at that point the little booth by the window was open, so I was probably going to move there anyway. I ate my enormous breakfast and got back on the road.

From Leeper the trail turned northeast and headlong into the Allegheny National Forest. The last of the fog was still lingering under trees, the last hiding place from the sun. At least the damp chill was gone from the air. It wasn't warm yet, but I didn't want my windbreaker. The road climbed up and down a couple long, dramatic curves, but rarely did the trees open up to afford a view of the surrounding landscape. The glimpses I got were pretty, and I can only imagine what this place looks like come fall. I had passed a number of small towns and took another break in the quaintly named Pigeon. I like pigeons well enough, I just don't think I would name my town after one. I had gone 20 miles since Leeper but for all the up and down I was doing, hadn't even gained 20 feet of altitude, from Leeper's height of 1814' to Pigeon's 1832'. There were several hundred feet of climb and drop, believe me. At least it was shaded.

The road climbs more sharply north after De Young, but I slanted back to the southeast. I took another longish break on a bench in front of the courthouse in Ridgeway. As I sat there a boy of maybe 7 or 8 walked by with his mother, his eyes fixed on Penny. As he passed me, all he could manage was 'wow'. I laughed.

By now I was coming out of the Allegheny Forest and the trees backed off from the road a bit. This was somewhat unfortunate, as it was now getting into the afternoon and the sun wanted it hot. What the sun wants, it generally gets, big gasball that it is. Several sharp hills and 11 miles past Ridgeway I was in St. Marys. I had descended more than climbed, I was now down at 1667', but by the time I got to St. Mary's I needed a break again. I found a gas station/cafe at the top of the hill in downtown and ate a sandwich on one of the tables outside. Penny was propped up against the short fence separating the parking lot from the tables. A couple high school boys pulled up in their car and took the table next to me. They asked about how much weight I was pulling and I invited them to try to pick Penny up. As usual, they declined.

The route turned more east with just a hint of north and took me into the town of Emporium. Just like Cornucopia, WI, I would call the high school sports team the Emporium Everythings. Somewhere in there I feel like I moved from western Pennsylvania into the central part of the state. Not that that made the hills easier, but home was just that bit closer. I turned right and started on PA 120, which follows the Sinnemahoning River until it flows into the Susquehanna. The Sinnemahoning Valley is beautiful. The river is pretty shallow but so old that it has carved itself quite a valley. It is one of the longer east-west valleys in the state, most rivers follow the northeast-southwest slant with the mountains.

Along here I saw something that I had noticed a couple times before, in Indiana and Ohio. I was passed by a truck sporting the Confederate Flag. I just don't understand this. My southern friends may have a different view, but I see the stars and bars as a symbol of hate and bigotry. Even if it symbolized something different 130 years ago, that is what it is today. Why someone in Pennsylvania would have one, other than as a sign of small-mindedness, is beyond me. I mean, the Confederacy lost in large part because of the people and resources of the state of Pennsylvania.

From Emporium it's a little over 20 miles to the village of Sinnemahoning. It was comparatively easy as most of the climbs were around the shoulders of hills as they came down to the river and not over the hill itself. Generally though, the road stayed just above the water with a bulk of blasted rock on its north shoulder. When the road did rise, it generally allowed for a great view of the valley and surrounding hills. There was a cop checking speed at one pull off. I rode by him then 5 miles down the road he passed me. I found him again a couple miles further along, checking speeds from a pull off on the other side of the road. I waved at him again.

By now the sun was behind the hills. I rounded a few last curves and finally a descent into Sinnemahoning. I didn't see any signs for a campground, just a trail, so I stopped to ask a local where I could pitch a tent. I gestured at the yard we were standing in front. 'They're gone for a couple days, you could right here.' I said I thought there was a campground around here and he told me there was a place across the stone bridge (not the steel bridge). I thanked him and rode out there.

The sun had now firmly set and I pulled into the driveway of a cluster of cabins. There was a house identified as the office, and I was immediately greeted by the very loud yappy small dog in the yard. I rang the bell a couple times, but got now answer. I tried. I walked around behind the cabins, out of sight of both the house and the road, and pitched my tent there. I had made it well over 100 miles in the heat and I just wanted to rest.

Day 69 Tionesta, PA - Sinnemahoning, PA
110.45 miles in 8:49:55 for 4118.7 in 312:15:40 and a high speed of 38.4