Final Route Map, SF, CA - Montauk, NY

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Monday, May 17, 2010

Mile 1361.2 - Antelope Day

I started day 18 with a 10 minute walk to get water and gatorade. As I was walking back into the courtyard of the motel, Phil, the guy at the desk the night before, told the three ladies of the housekeeping crew about my trip. I talked to them for a few minutes and as I pulled out of the parking lot, one waved out a window at me wishing me safety and good riding. I can feel the protective bubble of all the good wishes sent my way by the people I've met so far.

I started on the 22 miles to Shoshoni with the hope of making the 120 to Casper. Just before Shoshoni, I saw the spot that I really should have camped at the night before, at the Boyson State Park. The Wind River is gathered in the Boyson Reservoir and the pictures I took of the mountains reflecting off the surface of the water do not capture the awe of the location. As I climbed a little way up from the river, I could see mountains on the horizon in every direction except the one I was headed. Here again, my camera is too feeble an instrument to properly convey the character of the land.

As I continued east, I saw my first Wall Drug sign. I know that Wall, SD by the most direct route is still over 300 miles away. I saw another one the next day too.

46 miles into day, I came to Hiland, WY, population 10, and saw 20% of the town population. I don't think you can see 20% of New York City at once. A few miles past that is the Waltman Rest Stop, where a extensive gopher village had been established in the scraggly grass. After a brief rest, I continued east to Hell's Half Acre.

Hell's Half Acre is as rugged and unforgiving a landscape as any I can imagine. Buffalo used to be herded to their slaughter into the ravine, then carefully carried out. Definitely worth the stop if you're on your way to Yellowstone from Casper.

East of there, the hills started to get steeper and less forgiving. I passed Natrona. I had expected Natrona to be something, seeing that Casper is in Natrona County. As far as I can tell, Natrona is a ranch with a woman playing with a couple very waggy dogs. After Natrona came three hills. The second one was a long slow curve up, and by the top of the third, I knew I didn't have the 20 miles left to Casper in my legs. I found a grassy spot where the fence was a little further back from the road and partially blocked by the top of the hill. It was a great spot.

The title today is Antelope Day, and I have yet to mention an antelope. Throughout the day, I saw probably around 200, though I'm sure that more saw me. There were a few singles or couples, including one that was certainly the alpha male of any pack he ran in. He was a good six inches taller than the average antelope and bulkier. He watched me rolling up the hill toward him and snorted at me as I passed. Most of the antelope were in groups of 6-15, though I did see two packs that were over 25. I saw one of the larger groups grazing on the hill just beyond the fence where I had pitched my tent. Apparently I had been quiet enough and the wind blowing the other way, so they didn't sense me until I unzipped the tent door to get a clear picture of them. They allowed me a couple, then passed over the top of the hill into the sunset and out of sight.

Day 18, Riverton, WY - Camp east of Natrona, WY
96.7 miles for 1361.2 total, 7:32:15 today, 116:40:26 altogether and a high speed of 27.0 mph

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